Sew a ’50s Shelf Bust Dress (Gertie’s World, Ep. 2)

hi everyone I’m Gertie and welcome to
episode 2 of Gertie’s world if you’re new here what we’re doing every month is
bringing you a brand new exciting sewing content every month here on YouTube and
we also have a patreon where we’re doing exclusive episodes so if you like this
please check us out on patreon at Gertie’s world ok so what we’re going to
do today I’m very excited about I’m gonna be showing you how to make the Liz
dress and again just if you’re new here I have a company called charm patterns
by gertie this is my independent sewing pattern company we published a pattern
called the Liz dress in 2019 which everyone loved we worked on it for a
long time it’s a beautiful shelf bust style so that is based on a dress that
Elizabeth Taylor wore that’s why it’s called the Liz dress so I’m really
excited to show you today how to make it I’m gonna just direct you to the
mannequin over here this is actually the original vintage dress that inspired the
Liz dress I found this on Etsy and I just love the style of it it’s a
beautiful print too obviously but what’s really fabulous about this dress and
what makes it so special is the bustline so again this is called a shelf bust
really common very coveted style for people who love fifties dresses it has a
strap that kind of goes under the band like this and forms this little shelf
and then the bustline and this is like a very much this is like a bra like
bustline here so I’m going to show you how to construct this has these
beautiful pleats and then this sets into a midriff if you look at the back and
this was a little too small for the mannequin but you get the idea
this strap continues into this cute little band on the back and it goes to a
center of ‘back that has this beautiful full skirt so what we did at charm
patterns you can see our version over here was we love to take vintage
inspiration so I love this original vintage dress so much that I really
studied it and figured out how to make it and we drafted our own pattern
and graded it into 50 sizes so this goes in dress sizes 2 through 20 with
separate a through H cups so obviously bust fit is a huge part of making a
stress for yourself those cup sizes are really going to help you get a beautiful
fit and the bust so our version is very similar but we did make a few changes to
modernize it and make it fit ladies from all sizes 2 to 28 through H cup and we
just kept the same beautiful fit-and-flare silhouette and I’m going
to show you today the most challenging parts of making this dress so this is
not a beginner project I would say it’s solidly intermediate I’m going to be
referring you along in the Liz dress instruction booklet as we go along so do
keep that handy because it’s really gonna help guide you these instructions
are super comprehensive so just follow along with me there I have made this
many times in like quilting Cottons and like lawn fabrics Liberty lawns are a
great place to start this is a Hawaiian batik with a little crinkle texture so
for your first liz dress i would say definitely use a cotton fabric make it
easy on yourself so start there I am NOT making it easy on myself today I have
made so many of this dress in Cotton’s that I wanted to make my what I’m
calling my Debbie Reynolds fantasy dress today if you know anything about what we
do at charm patterns you know that feeling the fantasy is a big concept for
us so I always like to have a fantasy in mind when I sew and this dress I’m
sewing on camera today is inspired by a movie with Debbie Reynolds called give a
girl a break and it’s actually a terrible movie so I don’t really
recommend that you watch it but the costumes by Helen Rose are out of this
world and Debbie Reynolds wore this gorgeous ombre chiffon dress that looks
a lot like the Liz dress and I’ve had a yellow ombre chiffon in my stash for
probably eight to ten years now so I finally busted it out and you can see
I’ve constructed the skirt all red so it caused a yellow that goes down to
an ivory peachy color at the bottom and then the bodice is going to be a darker
yellow so you’ll see when we go over to the table and I start showing you how
this is going to be constructed so this is very much a fantasy dress like I said
and my construction is going to be a little bit different from yours if
you’re not using chiffon and like I said I hope you’re not for your first dress
but there is a lot to talk about so let’s get right into the construction oh
here’s mr. jingles so if you know my cat Henry loves to be on camera and here he
is with us today hi Henry okay everyone we’re gonna go over to the cutting table
and I’m just going to give you kind of the lay of the land with this pattern
okay everyone so we are going to get started talking about supplies first
thing you want to get is your cat okay because I’m sure Henry is going to come
in very handy today walking all over my chiffon right Henry yeah you just hang
out there okay so first thing we’re gonna talk about you need your pattern
okay oh Henry are you gonna make this difficult for
mommy let’s put you down now here we go okay let’s see how long that lasts he’s
very hungry so he’s gonna be bugging us for snacks all day okay everyone you’ve
got your pattern you’ve got your Liz dress alright make sure you’re following
along in your booklet a couple other things you’re going to need your fashion
fabric of course as I mentioned I’m going to be doing a chiffon dress which
meant that I also needed an underlay so if you see here that is a charmeuse
underlay and then so you’re gonna probably just be doing one outer layer
right so just one layer your cotton or whatever you’re using and then you’re
going to need a muslin underlining okay so all these quantities are in the
booklet you’re going to need a muslin underlining and then you’re also going
to need a lining fabric I’m using this really beautiful silk and cotton blend
called radiance I love this for lining okay a couple other things to have on
hand a zipper 18 inches is good I think that’s what the pattern says you got 18
inches good scissors please don’t try to do
this dress with crappy scissors I really like Chi Brand these dress making shears
are great they’re not expensive and they’re super sharp and then also a pair
of little embroidery scissors can come in handy for small detail work good pins
alright you’re gonna want to have silk pins I really like these Japanese ones I
can link you to the source for these as well as the scissors some sort of
marking tool I’ll show you I’m actually just using a pencil today because I’m
gonna be marking on my muslin and then make sure you have the correct machine
needle for your fabric so I this is not actually the one I want to use but I
want to use a really small needle for my chiffon so like a 7010 size okay so you
can see I’ve already started constructing my dress I’m not going to
show you every single step today just because it would take us way too long
I’m going to show you them the most complicated parts to really help you get
through this dress on your own so you can be successful okay so we are looking
at the bodice here I have already done these first few bodice steps on page 23
I have sewn my back Dart okay through my muslin and my outer
layers I’ve sewn my midriff pieces together there are my front princess
seams and my side seams so I have one big piece here and it’s kind of cool now
you can see how this is going to come together this is sort of the cradle
where the Shelf bust is going to be set and not quite yet but we are going to be
looking at the cup construction so I have one side ready to go and then I’m
going to show you how those pieces come together to form that Cup but the most
important thing we want to do now is the strap so I feel like the strap has
caused a little bit of confusion for people and I will tell you that it
caused confusion for me too when I looked at that vintage dress and thought
how the heck did they sew this so what you’re going to have is two strap back
pieces that look like this and you probably recognize this shape going down
the v-neck of the back bodice and I have two of those and then you’re going to
have two front strap pieces that look like this
okay so you need to cut these out for your cup size they look the the curve is
different depending on what cup size are making so make sure you’re using the
correct cup size so this gets seamed together at center front and then this
goes over the shoulder and gets seemed to the strap back okay so I’m going to
show you how these come together keep in mind you’re also going to need a second
set of strap pieces and I’ve sewn this entire one here let’s get these out of
the way okay so here’s my center front seam and then my strap back so it’s sewn
in one long piece you can see that my pieces are all basted together you’re
going to need to base your underlining to your fashion fabrics so keep that in
mind I did my by hand because of these
slippery fabrics so that’s why you can see the pink basting through there okay
so let’s talk about how these strap pieces come together first thing you’re
going to do is take your two strap fronts and again just to be really clear
you’re going to have one set that’s interfaced I’m sorry not interfaced
underlined with a muslin and then your second set is not underlined okay so the
underlined set the one with the muslin on it this is going to become the outer
strap or the one that sits closer to the world not closer to your body if that
makes any sense okay so first seam we need to do right
sides together we’re going to put these straps together at Center front so I’m
pinning this here I’m going to sew right there press it open after I do that I’m
going to put the shoulder seams together so the back straps are going to get laid
on top of the front straps right sides together like so and I’m going to pin
along the shoulder seams like that I always like to put my pins perpendicular
to the raw edge because it makes it very easy just pull them out while I’m sewing
and put them back in my little wrist pincushion okay so I’m going to sew
along there press open sew along there press
open and then I’m gonna come back and you’ll see I have one long strap piece
alright everyone I’ve got two sets of straps assembled here so the one on the
bottom here is my strap lining that’s the one that does not have the muslin
underlining the one on top does have the muslin underlining okay so you can see
these are the shoulder seams and this is the center front seam so we have two
really long kind of u-shaped pieces that we are now going to sew together so just
so you can follow along we’re on page 24 of the booklet this is the strap section
and we are on step two now okay so this is I will say the most confusing part of
the book so if you get this part you are golden from here on out okay so let’s
put these together right sides together and we’re also going to go over the
marks that you need to make sure that you have on your straps so again in the
in the last section I talked about using pencil and the reason for that is it
just shows up really well here are my circle marks and these are really
important you’re gonna have a circle mark on your back strap right there and
a circle mark on your front strap so and then one over here and one on the other
back strap so you should have four circles these are crucial also make sure
that you have all your notches clipped okay so what’s going to happen next is
we’re gonna pin these straps together and on the upper edge of the strap we’re
gonna so from this circle around here to the other circle this stays open back
here alright then on the lower edge of the strap we’re gonna sew from the
center back this edge over here all the way to our circle here then we’re in a
back stitch we’re gonna leave this open then we’re gonna start stitching at this
circle and then finish off at the very edge okay so I feel like when I was
figuring this dress out planning the construction how it was all going to get
go together the most confusing thing for me to write in the instructions was how
what stays open and what get sewn on this strap and you’ll see
Wyatt’s this way later because part of its get set into the bodice and part of
it forms that nice finished band so that’s why we’re doing this okay but for
now I’m just going to work on matching my raw edges here and pinning together
in the sections where I will be sewing so make sure that your shoulder seams
match just as a general tip you always want to match your match points and then
fill in pins in between you don’t want to start at one match point and then
continue to the other match point because then your match points may not
match okay so now I’m just filling in and that kind of helps distribute any
ease if there is any ease in there but there shouldn’t be in these straps okay
so I’m going to pin to this circle and now I’m going to pin the lower edge
together so I’m just going to keep working on this and then we’ll go over
to the machine and I’ll show you which edges of this I’m going to be sewing I’m
all pinned okay so I just want to repeat that what I’m gonna be sewing actually I
must have in here what I’m gonna be sewing on the upper edge is I’m gonna be
starting at this circle I’m gonna sew at five-eighths of an inch all the way
around until I get to this circle then I’m gonna back stitch and stop okay so
I’m not sewing from here to here on either back strap and then on the lower
edge of the strap I’m going to start at center back again stitching at
five-eighths of an inch stitching stitching stitching stitching stitching
until I get to this circle then I’m gonna back stitch and stop and then I’m
gonna pick it up again leaving this all open here pick it up again at this
circle stitching stitching stitching stitching until I get to that Center
back edge okay so I’m gonna go over to the machine now and that’s what we’re
gonna do all right I’m at my usual two and a half millimeter stitch length and
I’m starting on the upper edge of the strap here at the circle and remember
you’re using five eighths of an inch seam allowances for all scenes in this
dress make sure that your shoulder seams stay pressed open now you can see that
some of these basting stitches are going to show and that’s okay because I’m
gonna remove all of these so don’t worry about that so I’m coming up to Center
front now and I’m just gonna keep stitching until I get to the circle on
the other side of the upper strap on the backstrap to be very specific okay I’m at this next shoulder scene
I’m coming up to that circle and that is where I’m going to back stitch and break
my stitching okay okay so that’s it for the upper edge of the strap next thing
I’m going to do is I’m going to turn it around so I can be sewing from this edge
and I’m sewing the lower edge of the strap from Center back to the circle on
the lower edge of the front strap okay I’m coming up on that circle mark
so this is where I’m going to stop back stitch break my stitching I’m leaving
this edge open so I’m just going to find my start point my next circle over here
and then I’m going to restart stitching at this circle and I’m going to keep
stitching here until I get to the other back edge so I can just finish this off now that we’re done stitching I’m just
going to go over to my nice big flat surface where we can talk about trimming
these seam allowances and grading them and doing any clipping or notching the
next thing that we’re going to do is clip to our circles okay so you’re going
to clip as close as you can to your stitching without clipping through your
stitching so that you have a nice deep clip there so all four circles we’re
going to do this okay and the next thing we’re going to
do is grade our seam allowances so that just means trimming one of our seam
allowances so that it is shorter than the other and in the case of this your
shorter one is going to be the lining I’m actually you can see I got a seam
kind of caught here so I can go back and fix that later but my lining layers I’m
going to want to be the shorter seam allowance so I’m going to go around the
lining and trim these to about I like to say between 1/8 and a quarter of an inch
so 3/16 of an inch so that sounds super nitpicky okay so you’re going to do that
on the lining and then on the outer strap the one with the underlining
you’re going to trim that to about an eighth of an inch wider than the lining
okay so like that okay so I’m going to do that anywhere that I stitched okay so
that just to be super clear here anywhere that we didn’t stitch and the
edges are still open you’re not going to trim or a grade or
touch those seam allowances I’m just going to focus my efforts now on the
seam allowances where we just stitched so do your grading and we will come back
and talk about clipping and notching I’ve done all of my grading and now I’m
just going to do some clipping so you always clip inner curves and not CH
outer curves so we have both here so the upper edge of the strap I’m going to do
some clips about every half inch and you really only need to do this around the
curviest part so I wouldn’t worry about anywhere that it starts getting a little
straight like beyond the shoulder seam and you may notice I have a lot of
basting in here I’m just going to worry about that later so you can always take
your basting out later but just around this very curvy inner edge
the upper edge of the strap and again I have a lot of layers in here I have one
more layer than you will have right because I had that cheer chiffon outer
layer so I also needed the char mousse to give it some opacity so you’re seeing
more layers than you’ll be seeing in your dress because you probably are not
sewing this in chiffon I definitely wouldn’t recommend that if it’s your
first time sewing the dress okay so that is my inner curve all clipped and now we
want to knotch our outer curve so around here so you don’t need to do a ton of
these because this isn’t super curvy so maybe about every inch okay so I’m gonna continue like this
getting little yellow triangles everywhere and I’m not really gonna
worry right there that is not very curved just really this back strap I’m
just gonna but every inch it’s really not a dramatic curve here at all okay I think that looks pretty good all
right so the next thing we’re gonna do is turn this right side out so you have
an open edge here you can just kind of start to turn this and if you have like
a loop turner or a fast turn which I’m just realizing right now I’m cooking in
Malaysia we left it at the studio but this isn’t such a difficult thing to
turn we should be able to do it with just our hands right oh yeah we’ll
figure it out so I’m probably just gonna keep going in
here like this it’s convenient that you don’t have to
do the whole strap at once you can start in the middle and pull each back edge
out yep look well worked out one of those panic moments on camera okay so
same thing on the other side it’s looking like a nice long banana right
now it’s very banana looking it’s a it’s a banana like strap there we go okay our
next step and I’m going to explain it here flat before we go over to the
Machine our next step is going to be to understate the lining and you wear that
it’s open so here in this lower edge I’m gonna be under stitching right here
between the circles and then I’m going to go on on each side I’m going to under
stitch the back where it’s open so I’m gonna be stitching right here on each
side okay so we’re still on step two that’s kind of a long complicated stuff
but after we do this we’re going to press it and then we will be able to
attach this to the bodice all right so I’m gonna start at the center part of
the strap so this sort of like underbust curve I’m going to open out the lining
of the strap where as far as I can so you’ll see it’s this is where the circle
was so we’re gonna be a little restricted there I’m going to open it
out as far as I can I’m gonna the seam allowances just with my hands
here make sure the seam allowances are underneath the strap lining side and now
we are going to understand the strap lining so just get this opened out as
far as you can hold it nice and taut just get this thread to the back nice
and taut and then I’m going to be stitching like a kind of scant eighth of
an inch away from that seam line make sure you’re not catching anything else
underneath there okay and this under stitching is what is going to help the
edge of the strap look nice and crisp so there’s our center front seam which goes
right at Center bust and as I’m under stitching I’m always checking the seam
allowances I want to make sure that I’m catching them in my stitching so they
need to be flipped over to the lining side okay and you can feel them with
your finger so that’s how I know that they’re there and that I’m also using my
right hand to kind of sweep them under to the lining side and just go as far as you can you’re
gonna get to a point where it feels really difficult to get into that little
tiny spot and that’s because you’re getting close to the circle where it’s
stitched close so I’m just gonna back stitch and I’m going to trim that and
now I’m going to understand each of the back edges so same thing from Center
back on both sides I’m going to open out my strap lining hold it nice and taut
make sure my seam allowances are underneath the lining and I’m stitching
just about a scant eighth of an inch away from the seam line again you see some basting stitches
there and always pull those out later and again it’s gonna get a little tricky
I’m in a tight spot here because I’m coming up to where the circle mark was
and where the strap closes so I’m just going to backstitch there and now we
just have one more section of under stitching to do which is the other
center back now this sides a little weird because the lining side is going
to be to the left of your needle now so just keep that in mind and you are going
to be stitching just to the left so now I want my seam allowances to be going
back okay going as far as I can I wanna stop
about right there back stitch and the next thing and this is the thing you
almost always do immediately after under stitching is I’m going to press let’s
take this to the ironing board whoa okay I like to press from the side with
the under stitching so I’m just gonna roll my under stitching out to the edge
so you’re doing a motion like this with your hands just pressing that way taking
the edge and rolling it outwards and now I am pressing that edge I’m on a fairly
low heat because of the chiffon it does get it can get damaged and puckery
pretty quickly so I wouldn’t actually I think I went to auto off there it always
happens okay so I’m just going to just give this a little bit more time but you
can see now it’s starting to lay nice and flat in there that’s a nice finished
edge of our strap okay so anywhere that it’s open this is going to get basted
together so these sections here where our straps are open you can actually
start to pin these shut if you like like that because next thing we’re to do is
go to the machine and base them okay but I need to go around my entire strap now
press the whole thing of course there are sections where there is no under
stitching because both sides of the strap are closed so on these sections
just roll the edges the seam line edges out to the edge as
far as you can okay you don’t want it to kind of collapse in on itself so you
want to just continue that rolling motion that you do with the under
stitching and roll it out to the edge I’m gonna have to do the same thing on
this edge as well and I’ve even done you know used like a ruler to get in there
and really push the seam line out because you want it to look nice and
pretty on the edge there okay it’s a long strap I’m at my center here so now
you’ve seen me do one entire half of the strap so I feel like you should be
getting the idea by now so I’ll just continue with this pressing rolling my
under stitching out to the edge pinning these open edges together so that we can
base them next my strap is all basted shut and complete and now we are ready
to pin and baste it to the bodice so let’s go over to the table so I can show
you how to do this flap here’s my strap and now I have my completed outer bodice
here so hopefully you can kind of see how this is going to go together this
part this curved open edge here is going to get set into the under bust cradle on
the bodice so you can start and there also I just want to mention that there
are notches and there are some marks to help you here
you should have circles on your side front bodice where this finished edge
will match but let’s start with our notches first the notches will match the
princess seams on the midriff so you can start there and it’s very flat now but this is going
to start to take a three-dimensional shape so you’ll see what I mean in just
a second and I just want you I want you guys to watch this really closely
because they’ve been a lot of questions thinking that the strap gets twisted in
some way and it doesn’t okay so I am just right sides together pinning the
strap into the bodice like this and then we’ll get to the back strap in just a
minute okay so this finished edge here the seam allowance needs to match the
dot on the side front bodice okay so that means that you have a raw edge here
and then the finished edge of the strap goes here okay so this should this
section here is where it’s going to really start to curve and this varies by
cup size there’s more ease in the larger cup sizes so you may need to do some
clips into the side bodice so that it spreads to match the ease on the strap
okay but like I said you know like the a cups you don’t really have a lot of
curve there so you’ll probably just be able to pin this in no problem once you
get up to the H cup you’re gonna have to do a little more pinning and maneuvering
I’m making a D cup so I’m kind of like in the middle of the spectrum here so
you’ll see I’m just I’m having to pin a little bit but I think I’ll be fine
without actually clipping okay so same thing on this side I’m going to continue
that but let me just show you what happens with the back strap alright so
this kind of continues up like this alright you can see that’s where the
shoulder is and now this raw edge gets pinned to the raw edge of the back
bodice okay and these meet at centre-back so I did not twist anything and you’ll
see what I mean in just a second I’ll hold this up so you can see
okay so again this finished edge here on the strap there is a circle for you to
match it to on the back bodice alright so I’m just going to put a few pins here
and then I’ll lift this up so you can see how these have come together okay so
it’s just the strap is forming here it’s going to flip up after it’s sewn at
Center front becomes the shoulder and then just continues flat to the back
okay so that’s all there is to it this does not need to twist it should be very
flat right there okay and so I’m just going to continue pinning on the other
side and then you can probably guess what’s coming next and that is that we
are going to machine base these layers together okay I’ve got the whole thing
pinned you can see how the strap is set into the front and I’m just gonna turn
it over so you can see what the back looks like as well okay beautiful v-neck
on the back here alright no twisting on the straps and I’m just going to baste
from center back all the way to the circle there and again where it’s pinned
up front and again our third section okay so we’re going to go base these
layers together and then we’ll be ready to move on to the bra cups okay we are
on to the bra section so this is page 25 of the Liz dress booklet so you can see
I already constructed one all right so I just want to show you it has the pleated
upper piece which is this piece here there is a center lower cup which is
this piece and then a side lower cup which is this weird little wedge shaped
piece over here okay so you also need to have handy the upper cut piece cut in
your lining fabric this is the stay so this is what is going to help those
pleats stay folded the way they need to be so it’s super important okay
this upper pleat is cut on the bias which helps it curve around like that
we’re gonna form these pleats I have found that it’s helped me to draw in my
pleat lines in pencil okay we’re going to be working
from the front of the piece but it’s nice to have these as a reference to see
where they need to match up it’s also super important to have your notches
here because that’s what I go by on the front of the piece okay so you’re going
there should be two sets of notches here which is your first set of pleat your
first pleat and then two sets of notches here which is your second piece so on
the first is pleat sorry on the upper set you are going to take the lower
notch and bring it up to meet the upper knotch like that okay and again it’s
very important that you do this from the outside of the piece I know you might
think like oh I’ll just turn it around and that’ll make it easier but then your
pleats are going to be backwards then we’re gonna be going down rather than up
so I recommend doing it this way for now just pin the pleats closed in the seam
allowance okay don’t worry about painting along this line I like to kind
of check that I’m on track with where the pleats are and then we’re gonna like
press this down very gently over at the iron ok so again same thing with the
lower notch on the second set of notches take bring it up to meet the upper notch
pin it in place lower notch up to meet the upper notch and pin it in
place okay now the next thing I’m going to do is go over to the iron and just
gently steam these into place now I like to kind of check my lines on the back
because those lines are going to form the upper edge of each pleat so you want
to make sure it’s very easy with this to kind of get off and have like the pleats
be not the right width but you if you have those lines to guide you then you
should be okay okay so you can if you want just gently
pin the center of the pleat and I’m just going to double-check the
depth of my upper pleat here maybe I’ll just give that a little pin but I do not
want to actually steam this with the pins in there because with chiffon it
will leave a pin mark okay so I am just really carefully making sure that all my
layers are aligned here and then I’m gonna go over to the ironing board and
I’m just going to very gently steam these so that the pleats stay in place all right you can see I’ve steamed these
pleats down a little bit I used a press cloth since I am using some pretty
delicate fabrics here the next thing we’re going to do is put
this section on top of the stay like this and you can pin it in place around
the edges now the edges should match roughly if they don’t it’s very
important that you don’t pull the pleated piece so that it matches the
stay because then you’re going to be pulling open the pleats and we want this
the stay is there to help the fleet stay closed so I would say it’s more
important that everything is flat then that they match exactly at the edges so
just lay it and let it fall as it may and then you can use the outer edge of
the stay as your seam line your seam allowance guide when stitching next
thing I’m going to do is based again around these outer edges to base the
stay to the pleated piece so you can probably do this on the machine
depending on your fabric I have found that with the chiffon and the layers
that I have it’s just it can start to especially with the bias that we’re
working with here it can start to get these weird little diagonal pulls here
with the chiffon so when I sewed the other one I found that basting this by
machine was not a good idea for me so I’m just doing a little hand baste and
whoops that’s not right hand basting in the seam allowance next to my previous
hand basting and I’m gonna base these two pieces together and then we will
move on to the next step my upper cup is all basted so now we’re going to sew
this vertical seam on the lower cut pieces so you just need to put these
right sides together match the upper edges and again we’ve talked about this
before but you’re not going to necessarily match at all edges here
you’re going to match at the five-eighths of an inch seam line so
keep that in mind again I’m going to match my lower edge like that and then you just kind of
distribute the excess in between the two okay so I’m gonna go stitch this seam so
let’s head on over to the machine I was on basting before so I’m gonna make sure
I’m on my regular stitch length about two and a half I’m gonna back stitch
here again using five eighths of an inch seam allowances okay and back stitching
at the bottom and I’m gonna trim down this seam allowance here so to about a
quarter inch before I press it open you also might notice that we’ve got a
bit of an outer curve going on here so if you remember from earlier we always
knotch outer curves so about every half an inch
is fine all right let’s play and this is where a
ham is going to come in handy remember your hammie we are going to put the
lower cup over hami and kind of hold it nice and taut there grab your iron and
just work the point of your iron in between your layers so I have a lot of
layers going on here I want to make sure I’m going through the correct layers so
you can also use your hand I’m kind of trying to hold it up so you guys can see
it too so this is a little awkward but I’m just going to a little steam now I
can turn it around from the other side and press this open and this is where
you’re getting a funny little like Triceratops sort of thing going on here
you’ve got like a little spiky pump back on your cup so it looks like a funny
little animal now and so that when we turn it right-side out so I got a few
little wrinkles here so I’m just gonna press those out if you see anything like
that just you can just smooth it from the right side I’m gonna use a press
cloth just go to this chiffon is so delicate so I’m just gonna kind of
smooth from the right side but yeah an organza press cloth is a great thing to
have Dritz makes them I ordered them on Amazon all the time you can probably
find them at your local chain fabric store whoops still got it
okay so I’m gonna keep refining this here hopefully I can smooth this out this is
an important part to really take your time and you don’t want to see any
wrinkles on the bra section oh that’s hot oh my god my iron is leaking onto my
leg I actually did get a really bad burn once on-camera on my hand I think this
one it’s just a mild burn on my leg so okay let’s go back to the table and
we’re going to sew the upper cup to the lower cup okay we are now ready to sew
the horizontal seam on the cup so you can put the upper cup right sides
together with a lower cup and you’re going to want to match that Center notch
to the lower cup seam then match these edges so this is always my process when
matching two things like this so I match the notches first any seams and then the
ends and then I distribute okay I know from experience that is a little easier
to sew this seam from the inside you can see it’s starting to really form a
curved shape now which is good so you might want to orient your pins on the
inside of the lower cup because when you go to so it’s easier to
kind of cup it in the machine like this rather than try to go this way okay so
now that this is pinned I’m going to go back to the machine I’m going to stitch
this and trim notch and press it open so I have sewn both cups now you can see I
press that seam open so we’ve got two cups we’re going to sew them together at
the center front seam so you’re just going to take both put them right sides
together match that horizontal cup seam so this is where I kind of like to use a
pin to make sure the layers are matching here and we’re gonna sew along this
center front seam what did I just do I’m a little off I matched a pleat to
the seam there we go let’s try that let’s try this again everyone want to
match the seam to the seam and then the tricky thing about this is that you do
want to match your pleat lines as well so I’m just kind of making sure that
each one matches and each pleat is right on top of each other this part can be
really tricky too so I always find matching pleat lines really complicated
and it just takes a few tries sometimes so if you’ve ever sewn the limb or dress
you know there’s that one pleat at center front and I’m Alicia and I have
had days where we had to me some things so many times to get the two sides of
the pleat to match so here you have a seam line and two pleats so if you don’t
get it on the first try just rip it out and go back but hopefully mine will come
out perfectly on the first try on camera so when I have things like
that that I’m matching I usually wait until the last possible second to take
the pin out where I matched it I’m usually a little better about
removing my pins because I don’t like to sew over pins okay
moment of truth that’s actually pretty good
there’s one little kind of pucker there but I think it’s looking pretty good so
get the militia seal of approval that’s a yes okay now I’m gonna press the seam
open try not to burn my leg off like just want to be careful here I can see
I’m like inadvertently pressing the cup and getting some little ripples I’m just
gonna smooth that out real quick but what I’m focusing on here is the center
front seam again lots of basting going on here this would be something I would
want to take out I’m not gonna make you guys watch me do it on camera but there
are my center front pleats at my center front seam okay next thing we’re going to do is sew
the cup lining or excuse me the bra lining to the bra so I have already
assembled my bra lining in my lining fabric so you don’t do the pleated
pieces on the lining you just use that flat upper cut piece and sew your Center
seam and now we’re going to put the lining and the outer bra right sides
together and we’re going to stitch them along the upper neckline edge okay so
we’re going to match the edges here okay so where I’m stitching is starting
at this edge here I’m going to go to center front there’s a small pivot there
there’s a little sweetheart point and I’m gonna finish that side so just along
the upper neckline okay so regular stitch length 5/8 of an inch seam
allowance as usual so I’m stopping at that center front seam and I’m there’s a
slight pivot here with the needle down you’re going to pivot and then continue
on the other side okay the next few steps I’m gonna do are
really similar to things we’ve done already so I’m just going to tell you
what they are and then I’m gonna go ahead and do them we’re going to grade
these so that the lining is the shorter seam allowance and the outer bra is the
wider seam allowance we’re going to then open this out you might want to do a
little notch there because this is a slight outer curve open this out and
you’re going to understand okay about an eighth of an inch and then
we’re going to press the whole thing in so let me get through these steps and
then we will talk about basting the lower edge of the cup together okay I’ve under stitched my neckline and
now I’m just gonna roll this edge out and just press here to just get the nest
neckline looking nice and crisp should be looking nice so definitely it’s
Center front you want to make sure that you’re really pressing in there okay so
that it doesn’t accidentally pop out here at the lining you don’t wanna see
that on the outside of the dress obviously and yeah you don’t want to
flatten this piece out so I guess you can see that I’m just kind of like
moving in little sections you could put it over your ham too but I’m finding it
easier right now to press it flat on the board so I’m just kind of moving it in
sections as I need to so there we go I’m gonna need to kind of smooth out
that chiffon there but you get the idea alright so I’m going to next thing I’m
going to do is match the lower edges of the bra cup of the entire bra and pin
these free edges together the lining and the outer dress match your center front
seam one thing I wanted to mention too about the shape of this Cup you may
notice here at this seam which is the lower cup seam that it dips in slightly
when you sew this to the cradle that sort of underbust curve and the dress
that’s gonna straighten out so don’t worry if you see that that was one of
the things when I was working on this pattern I kept seeing that dip and
thinking it was a mistake with the grading or something like that but what
actually happens as it smooths out and it creates the room in the cup which is
actually pretty cool so I learned a lot working on this dress
as you’re probably getting the set there are a lot of like moving parts and
especially with all the different cup sizes we offer with charm patterns the
the pieces can look wildly different from like an a cup up to an H cup than
from a size 2 to a size 20 so it’s just been it was really interesting we tested
every single cup size I think we sewed in the studio to see how it came
together and it just looks so beautiful on so many different body types ok so
now I’m going to I’m going to baste by Machine along that lower edge where I’ve
pinned so I’m putting my stitch length up to like a 5 and I’m basting with a
half inch seam allowance okay the lower edge of the bra is now
based in together so the next thing we’re going to do is go over to the
table and work flat and we’re going to pin this into the bodice alright we’ve
sewn the cups together we’ve actually gotten ourselves to step 10 on page 27
if you’re following along so the next thing we’re gonna do is put this bra
section into that under bust curve so flip this down because you want to be
working right sides together match your center front seam don’t like that pin okay there we go
and this finished edge is going to match the finished edge of the strap and that
circle mark on the side front bodice okay so it’s not going to go too all the
way to the edge but it should go about right there
okay you should have a notch to match to the lower Cup seen here and this again
is another instance where this is just going to kind of curve in there okay and
again the higher the cup size the more easing you’re going to need to do so you
might need to do some clipping again on the that cradle curve section of the
underbust if you’re having trouble easing this in but it looks like mine is
going to fit pretty easily you just have to kind of curve that shape in there see
it’s forming a pretty dramatic curve there all right so I’m going to continue
pinning this in here on both sides so again just to demonstrate this again
this finished edge of the bra piece is going to match the finished edge of the
strap and then the circle on the side front bodice okay and now I’m just going
to distribute that into the curve so I’ve got a real dramatic curve shape
going on here and I’m going to go back to the machine put it on basting stitch
and I’m going to baste from here around the curve to that side and then my bra
will be set into my dress all right everyone exciting news we are now on
lining the bodice which is on page 27 so the bra is now set into the outer
bodice and I have sewn my bodice lining which just width which looked just like
the outer bodice midriff and back so you’re going to repeat those steps in
your lining the one thing I will say it’s a good idea to do is stay stitching
along that inner curve of that cradle here at half an inch and
then you can clip here if you need to when you’re setting the bra in okay so
I’m just going to warn you that I know I said that the strap was the hardest part
of this dress but that might not have been entirely true I might have been
lulling you into a false sense of security because this step is a it’s
pretty tricky okay but I’m gonna walk you through every little step and it’s
going to be fine okay so here’s what’s going to happen we’re going to turn the
bra section down we’re going to put this right sides together with the lining so
lining and the outer dress are right sides together and the bra cups are like
sandwiched in between the two and you’re going to start pinning these together
okay so you can match those princess seams
they’re match your Center fronts and here you’re going to need to get the
straps completely out of the way okay so you should have that circle here which
matches the circle on this corner where the bra Cup starts here that we’ve
matched a few things to already so I’m going to come back and distribute this
along here so again we’re just kind of creating this inner curve and then
you’re gonna pin the back together so let me go to this back point right here
match the underarm seams and I’m sorry if this just looks like a big mess of
nothing right here but I’m gonna try to just really talk you through this okay
so this is the back underarm curve I’m gonna pin this together okay so this is
your side seam here going up to the point of the back and now I’m going to
pin these together along the center back and what is really tricky here
as you can see you’ve got the strap in here and you’ve got to kind of smush it
in between the layers here so that you don’t catch the strap in your stitching
it has to be kind of rolled up between the layers and this is what’s kind of
tricky because we’re gonna have to stitch along here there’s a circle here
we’re gonna pivot pivot and then stitch back down that way but it’s really hard
to do this without accidentally catching the strap so if you’re just really
mindful now as you’re pinning and of where that circle is right there that’s
gonna make it easier for you in the long run too okay so now we’re kind of
pinning to center back here I’m gonna show you a cool trick at centre-back
which is like a clean finish trick but for now just leave it alone just kind of
leave it open there and I’m gonna go around and continue pinning here’s my
center front bra curve if you want to just watch me do the
other side maybe seeing it twice will kind of help solidify how this works
okay so here’s our strap we’re going to kind of get that out of the way and I’m
going to match my circles this is at the front underarm and where the bra cup
ends and now I’m going to match everything together along the underbust
curve here and again we’re at the opposing side
seam so I’m going to match the side seams here then here’s my Center back
I’m not so I’m sorry not Center back but the back strap points would be a better
way to describe that my back underarm which I’m now matching and now here’s my
other strap which I’m really going to try to roll out of the way so that it’s
smushed in that tiny little section right here and when I’m stitching I’ll
be very careful to try to keep the strap free of my stitching and now here’s our
other back neckline okay so you should be hopefully seeing your Center backs
all match and now I’m going to turn the whole thing over and show you my little
clean finish trick I put this in all of the instructions for charm patterns and
it gives you a really nice clean finish with a lap zipper okay so we’re going to
be inserting a lap zipper into this dress so the right side of the back is
going to be the under lap side and the left side is the overlap side and all of
this by the way is on page 27 step 3 prepare laps at birth seam
allowances at center back neckline on the right side as you’re working you’re
going to take both of those seam allowances and turn them up together
towards you half an inch so I’m just gonna check that with my ruler what a
few layers going on here and I’m just going to pin that in place okay now on
the left side which is the overlap side the lining and the dress are going to
get turned in slightly different seam allowances so the lining you can turn in
7/8 of an inch and then the dress is 5/8 of an inch okay so they’re slightly
staggered you’re still turning every seam allowance up and out towards you as
you’re looking at the back lining okay so that means that you’re going to get a
little quarter inch gap between the two which is just a little trick to help you
when you turn this all right side in the lining will clear the zipper which if
you’ve ever tried to do a lap zipper with a lining you know that that’s kind
of the tricky part right here is that the lining turns in and covers the
zipper so this is all to prevent that so that’s all there is to it’s super easy
7/8 of an inch 5/8 of an inch on this side okay so the next thing we’re going
to do is go to the Machine and I’m going to stitch all the way around from Center
back up to my back strap point pivot pivot
up to my front underarm corner pivot and then all the way around that curved edge
and continue on to the other center back point so let’s head over to the machine
ok I’m ready to stitch I am going to actually stitch my under bust curve in
one line of stitching and then go back and do my Center back so this is a
little tip that I mentioned in the instruction booklet I find that it helps
just to break up this a little bit so you can start at the underarm do your
Center bust curve all the so from one end to the other and then we’ll go back
and Stitch the backs and the underarms so regular stitch length so you can
start all the way at the raw edge and we’ll just our stitching will kind of go
like that when you do the other section so there’s a real curve to this section
because you know as you’ve seen the pattern piece it’s like that so I will
say it helps to kind of manipulate it with your hands to curve it over your
sewing machine here so that it doesn’t pucker because there’s a real 3d shape
to this section right here building a lot of curves into this dress here mr.
jingles over there begging for food you hungry Henry Henry hasn’t eaten in
probably six hours which is now he’s knocking stuff over that’s a real
emergency for Henry okay so as you sew around this curve
just hold it kind of you can kind of curve it up towards you too and honestly
you might need to go back and pull some puckers out from here because we’re
working with a lot of layers a lot of curves so just do your best you can
always fix any little puckers later okay and I’m going to sew all the way to this
raw edge now okay so I have sewn the entire front curve from underarm to
underarms and this is where you’re gonna want yeah I see I have a few little
catches here but I’m not gonna worry about it now I’m going to show you the
next step of stitching and then we can kind of fix everything later if you need
to okay so now that you’ve done the center front you’re gonna go back and
start at center back and we’re going to sew up to the back strap point where
there are two pivot points remember this is where you need to make sure that your
straps a is kind of like smushed in there and then we’re going to sew around
the underarm to meet that point where we started sewing okay at centre-back your
seam allowances are turned in for that little trick that we did for the clean
finish so just keep them turned in and start stitching at the very edge of the
fabric back stitch this is my back v-neck okay and as I’m sewing up towards the
strap point on the back I am just being really mindful and feeling the layers
and making sure I’m not about to stitch accidentally stitch my strap into this okay so there is a circle here where you
are going to pivot so stop with your needle down pivot and we’re kind of
sewing flat across this upper back now so just a couple stitches here and then
we’re going to pivot again so you’re sewing up pivoting pivoting and then
back down so it’s like a weird little rectangular point and now we’re going to
continue stitching along the underarm and this is where again just be really
careful that your strap is rolled out of the way and I’m actually I’m putting my
finger in between the layers now kind of move the strap out of the way of my
stitching okay so now I’m coming to my side seam and this point can get a little crazy
because everything can kind of start to pucker and there’s again just a lot of
shape built in here so I’m just kind of smoothing everything out and then I’m
sewing all the way to the raw edge over here taking this out now I’m gonna come
back and finish the other side obviously because I’ve only so in one back point
but I’m just gonna kind of do what you want to do before you trim or grate or
do anything I’m just going to kind of show you what I’m talking about here is
you want to check to make sure that your straps were not caught in your stitching
and mine weren’t but it does look like I didn’t get quite close enough to the
clip point here so I’m actually going to go back and stitch a little bit closer
so it’s just a bit of a process here you got to kind of do your stitching and
then turn it right-side out and just to do a test to see if you stitch to close
and caught your strap or if you didn’t stitch close enough and you have a raw
seam allowance exposed at the clip point so just kind of you know be very patient
with this part of the process and just check a couple times until you’re really
happy with it I obviously need to finish the other side of my back and do this
process on the other side too so I’m going to keep doing this and then we’re
going to come back for all the grading and clipping and notching it everything
okay we are back I’ve stitched around in my entire neckline and I kept sort of
testing those the strap placement on the other side I had to go back like six
times I’m not gonna lie so if you did – it’s okay just make sure you get it so
that you’re close to this strap but not too close it’s just a delicate balance
alright now that the entire thing is stitched we are on step five on page 29
so we’re going to grade our seam allowances so the lining is going to be
the shorter one and then the layers can get progressively taller so the lining
is shorter and then the dress is is the taller one they say that right
yes I get okay all right so I also want to let you know you’re going to need to
trim away these corners like the back corner this backstrap point right here
you should like trim across those corners and just really trim away any
excess there same thing with this front underarm corner so just kind of trim in
there there’s a lot of layers going on there with the bra and the outer dress
and the lining okay so you’re going to go around you’re going to trim all those
little corners and you’re also going to grade so again the lining is the shorter
one well let me try and eaten that up a little bit and then the dress is taller
and again like a great way to kind of naturally grade this is to just hold
your scissors at an angle towards you if you’re doing several layers at once
you’re going to go around doing the seam allowances like that you are going to
clip into any curve so the underarm curve and then you’ll same thing with
the under bust curve too okay so let’s do all those steps I’m just going to
keep working on this and then the next thing we’re going to do is turn the
bodice right side out and go to the Machine and under stitch where we can so
that will be our next step okay we’re now gonna turn everything right side out
so you’re just gonna pull out the straps in the back turn the lining down this
way and now you can see what we’ve been working towards this entire time is this
beautiful clean finish on the inside so pull the straps out like that so give
yourself a pat on the back because that was a really challenging part and the
next thing we’re gonna do before we can move on to the skirt is to understand so
you’re just gonna under stitch the back neckline the underarm
the other underarm and the other back neckline so we have to do four different
stages of under stitching so I’m just gonna start at this I’m just gonna pick
one back neckline and I’m gonna start this way and just like we’ve done before
with under stitching you’re gonna make sure your seam allowances are underneath
your lining you’re holding the two layers taut and you’re gonna start
stitching and you’re stitching about an eighth of an inch a little less away
from the seam line okay so you’re gonna go as far as you can
you’ve ever seen in pattern instructions it says under stitch as far as you can
and you wonder what that means it’s usually because you’re going to get to a
point where you can’t go any farther so in the case of this neckline you are
going to get to a point here where the strap starts to narrow at the back
neckline and you’re not going to be able to get any further here so I’m just
going to go as far as is comfortable back stitch and then break my stitching
trim away the thread and then I’m going to go on to my next section of under
stitching which would be the underarm so just a little section right here Patti what are you doing you got
something on your nose Patti is checking her food bowl just
making sure there’s nothing not a little scrap left over from this morning okay
so we are going to now do the underarm and this is a really challenging little
section cuz it’s just very small and very tight quarters right here and again just go as far as you can I
mad about my side seam right here okay so there’s that underarm
okay so then on the other side of the dress I’m going to do the other arm and
the other back neckline okay so and then the neck the final thing you’ll do and
let me just show you this side would be to just kind of press everything in
press the lining in press the lining in at the underarm you know do your little
move where you’re pushing out the lining to the edge and so remember to repeat
all that on the other side and I’m going to let you also your skirts on your own
because this part is fairly easy and if you’ve gotten this far I’m pretty sure
you know how to show a gathered skirt so you’re gonna sew your skirt pieces
gather them sew them to the waistline of the dress and then we’re going to come
back and we’re going to do our lapped zippers together because I really want
to show you the technique for that so I will see you in a little bit we’re back
I have a skirt on which is very exciting it’s definitely looking like a dress now
we’re gonna put our zippers in so I wanted to talk you through the process
of a lap zipper a little bit before I start to sew again the right side of the
dress is the under lap side and the left side is the overlap side so we’re going
to sew the zipper to the right side and then there will be a slight overlap here
and then top stitching on the left side so that’s what form this overlap okay so
to prep for your zipper you’re going to want to press in your seam allowances on
the zipper opening from top to bottom so or until the opening on the skirt so
your skirt should be stitched until the zipper circle and then open from there
up to the waist line so you have a full zipper opening here okay so on the right
side as you look at the dress this seam allowance is going to be turned in half
an inch okay so that’s a little bit less than your usual 5/8 of an inch see
allowance that’s because you want to set the zipper just slightly in okay so the
left side you’re gonna use your full five eighths of an inch seam allowance
okay it’s like this on every pattern with a lap zipper this is how it’s
always done so half an inch on the right side five-eighths of an inch on the left
side okay so I always start I have like a process I like to do with lap zippers
I always pin flat so I start with the under lap side pin it flat on the table
then we’re going to go to the Machine and stitch it we’re going to come back
to a flat surface we’re gonna pin the overlap side and then go back to the
Machine and stitch that side so you’re kind of moving back and forth between
your flat surface and your sewing machine I did want to show you just one
thing I’ve done a little differently on my dress because I have this chiffon
outer layer I am I did the radiance the sort of ivory cotton and silk blend for
my skirt lining and because I know from experience working with these kinds of
fabrics it really doesn’t look good if you have a lapped zipper top stitched on
chiffon so the way I used to actually work in bridal gown restoration for a
little while and that was an experience but I did learn a lot from it and one of
the things that I learned is if you have an overlay like this and lace or
something like that with a zipper going down the center back seam you don’t want
to stitch the zipper in to that or the lace or the shear into that seam you
want to leave it free like this so yours gonna turn in those seam allowances and
then they should end at the center back so this is gonna be like a little open
flap here I’m gonna stitch down to the waistline and then I’m gonna stitch the
zipper just to the lining in the skirt and that’s gonna prevent any weird
puckering and bunching at the sort of tail end of the zipper in that gathering
chiffon fabric and it just looks a lot nicer okay so first thing we’re gonna do
is we are going to grab our zipper and you’re going to kind of see where the
zipper naturally bends under at the top here and that is where you want to place
this right under the finish edge of the v-neck so like right here
and then you’re going to release that zipper tape so it’s kind of like free
and also I just want to say you’re going to keep the bodice lining free and all
of this okay so I’m going to open my zipper a little bit and I’m going to
you’re just gonna put the fold of the right side of your dress over the zipper
so that the fold is just next to the zipper teeth like this and then you’re
going to pin next to the teeth okay I’m going to do this all the way down so
this little neckline band is going to get stitched into your zipper stitching okay and below the waist I am just
pinning the lining which you can see here and then this is going to be kind
of a free hanging little opening and the tail of the zipper can just get tucked
in I have a lot more tail than I really need so I probably should have trimmed
in my zipper of you who are hand but I can always do it afterwards too so again
the fold is right next to the teeth and you are placing your pins right on the
fold down into the button down until you get to the the base of the zipper
opening in the skirt okay alright so let’s go on over to the
Machine and we are going to stitch right next to the fold okay I like to have my
zipper about half way open for this side and that will close it when we get close
to the pole I have put my zipper foot on my machine my Bernina has this really
narrow kind of zipper foot where you have to move the needle to either side
of the zipper foot that you want to stitch on that’s kind of unusual so you
probably have one where you have to move the foot to either side of the needle so
in any case you’re going to want to have the needle to the left of the foot when
you’re starting and we’re going to be I always stitch from top to bottom on
both sides so we’re stitching the underlap side and you’re gonna start
just above your zipper stop here and when you know where you want to start I
would say lower your needle before you lower your presser foot and that kind of
helps you situate yourself and then I like to kind of use my left hand to hold
the back very taut like this I’m going to start stitching and I’m just
stitching like pretty close to the fold as close to the fold as possible but you
don’t want to be like exactly on the edge so I would
say like maybe 1/16 of an inch your top stitching okay so we’re gonna continue
down in this way stitching really close to the fold
taking your pins out as you stitch and just a note on why I put my pins in this
way I like to have the heads closest to me so that I can pull them out easily
and as you’re stitching this lap zipper just like keep everything nice and flat
and I like to use Henry tipping here’s my left hand to hold to give
myself a nice flat surface here especially with these layers of chiffon
and char mousse and all that hey mr. jingles you just want to keep everything
as flat and taut as possible okay now I’m getting close to my waistline seam
which is where I actually I can keep going I want to just make sure that I
don’t get this chiffon overlay caught in my stitching but I have enough space
right here on this side that I’m just gonna keep stitching just like you’re
gonna keep stitching on yours I am going to close my zipper pull now so with my
needle down I’m going to lift up my presser foot and close the zipper so
it’s now out of the way I’m gonna keep this chiffon layer out of the way and
now I’m just stitching on the lining again this is unusual to my dress
because I had to have my fantasy dress so I have I’m doing a couple different
things than you would be doing if you were just sewing in a regular ngon sheer
fabric we’re going to keep stitching until we
get to the very base of this zipper opening and you can see I’m almost down to where
the seam line starts where the zipper opening opens up so I’m going to back
stitch here and that’s it for this side so we’re going to go back to our flat
surface and we’ll pin the overlap side alright so we’re back on our flat
surface we’re going to pin our overlap side okay so we’re gonna take that
folded in seam allowance put here a little zipper pull down and this will
cover so I I recommend starting by matching your waistline seam here so
you’re going to have your seam your fold should just cover the line of stitching
that you did on the under lap side that we just did okay so you’re just taking
the fold and it’s covering your line of stitching like that I’m matching the
waistline seam and now I’m pinning to the left of the zipper teeth okay and
I’m pinning through the zipper tape okay so I’m putting my hand between the
layers so that I’m just pinning through the seam allowances and the zipper tape
okay there are a few more match points on the spot as’ you’re going to want
this v to match here the base of that strap that we work so hard to sew and
take that collar off so just continue to pin like this so you
can see I’m kind of forming that overlap as I’m pinning so I’m just pinning to
the left of the teeth you want to test this your the way that you’ve pinned it
try to open your zipper and if you can’t open it that means that you’ve pinned
too close to your teeth or even on the wrong side of your teeth so that’s a
very common mistake so just look out for that okay so the top we’re going to
start our top stitching over here at the very top of the neckline and then we’re
going to be top stitching at 3/8 of an inch right here now I’m going to pin the
rest of it from the waist down now and again I’m just going to pin through my
lining not through my chiffon overlay okay so I’m gonna pin this all the way
down it gets a little tricky because you have to work between the layers like
this but it’s definitely doable it’s just kind of hard to show you sometimes
so I’m just going to keep pinning with my hand between the layers until I get to the base of the zipper
opening which is right here and I like to give myself a little horizontal pin
right here to remind myself that that’s where I’m going to do my pivot because
I’m going to stitch until I get to the horizontal pin and then I’m gonna pivot
and then stitch horizontally across the base of the zipper okay all right looks
good so I’m just gonna kind of smooth everything out so you can see oops so
you should be able to close and open your zipper and you’re gonna start with
your zipper all the way down okay on this side you want it to be all the way
at the bottom here okay so we’re going to go back to the machine and we’re
going to top stitch the overlap side I’m going to switch my needle to the other
side of my foot now because we are now stitching on the right side of the
presser foot and I’m going to start top stitching at the very upper edge of my
neckline and this top stitch should be at 3/8 of an inch and you want to be
really careful here that you’re not going to stitch over your metal stop so
that’s why I’m kind of checking and double-checking what I’m doing I also
will use my hand wheel for a few stitches up here as I hate breaking
needles it like scares me every time okay so I’m going to back stitch here
and now I’m just going to hold everything nice and taut I get a nice smooth surface to work on
here take your pins out as you go stitching at 3/8 of an inch okay now
when I get to my waistline seam I’m going to break my stitching you are not
going to break your stitching because you are to probably not just sewing a
Debbie Reynolds chiffon fantasy dress but you might be but if you’re not doing
this chiffon overlay like I am you’re just going to keep stitching to the
bottom I am going to die back stitch I can’t remember anyway we’ll check on
that later I think I back stitched anyway I’m going to lift up this overlay
here and I’m gonna restart my stitching below the overlay just in the lining and
I’m just holding the chiffon out of the way so you would be sewing this into just
your outer skirt and holding your skirt lining out of the way so we’re kind of
reversing how this is normally done yeah if you lined your skirt then you’re just
kind of keeping the skirt lining out of your stitching here all right you can
see I’m almost at the base of my zipper opening you can see my horizontal pin
that I put there you can see my zipper pull so I get really close like about
there I’m going to stop with my needle down lift up the presser foot and close
the zipper just a little bit and now you’re gonna finish off the zipper top
stitching I’m going to continue my top stitching until I get to my horizontal
pin stop with my needle down lift up my presser foot and I’m just gonna stitch
horizontally across the base there and my zipper is in so that wasn’t so bad
was it even in chiffon okay so the zipper is in
and I have a bunch of stray threads and stuff here but you should see and
actually I’m going to need to turn that in a little bit more but you’ll see the
next steps are going to be to turn in the lining and so let’s go to the flat
surface and I’ll show you how to do that part okay our zipper is done the next
thing you’re going to do is to do a clean finish on the inside of the dress
by turning in your bodice lining I always like to do a line of stay
stitching around the waist line on the bodice lining so that I then have a very
clear reference point for where to turn it under alright so I’m going to just
kind of pin this turn in the seam allowance and
it so that you’re hiding those seam allowances underneath there I think that so all the way around the waistline so
see how nice and clean that finish is going to be and then the same thing on
the zipper opening you’re going to turn in your seam allowance and then you’re
going to need to turn down these little tape edges at the top here and just kind
of sandwich them in there and then you’re going to do little pins here down
to the waistline like that okay so this will all be turned in you’ll get a
completely clean finish of the lining and you’re going to do a little hand
stitch down the zipper tape and around the waistline okay and then the final
thing to do will be to hem your dress so there’s some hemming suggestions in the okay so you can just take a look at page
35 you’re gonna want to let it hang for a little bit and then even up your hem
if you need to make any adjustments to the length and then you can do a little
narrow hem on both the skirt outer and the skirt lining okay so there are I
should mention there are also instructions in the booklet for the
waist tie and the little fringes on the ends we’re not going to be going over
those today but they’re fairly easy to do so if you’re interested in doing that
cute little vintage inspired detail definitely check out pages 36 to 37 in
the instructions so that’s it everyone that’s the end of the Liz dress for
today which I kind of can’t believe because we’ve been talking about doing
this tutorial for so long and as you can see it is a pretty involved dress I hope
you really loved making it and sewing along and I’m so excited to show you
what we have coming up okay everyone at the end of each episode
we like to tell you a little bit about what is going on in Gertie’s world this
month so I am very excited to you I’m sure you’ve heard me talk to Malaysia
off camera a little bit now and I finally got her out here to meet you
this is the lovely Melisha, assistant designer at charm patterns so we wanted
to show you what we worked on this month for patreon and you can probably see a
little theme going on here with us and the mannequin we are modeling the Peter
Pan bolero which is our exclusive patreon project for this month so if you
would like to get the pattern for this and learn the techniques that we use to
make it and do these little embellishments you have a lovely little
diamante Swarovski detail on the collar and then as well as this variation here
with the faux fur collar and these fun little pom poms so these are really fun
to make and I’m sure you’ve been pretty amused watching me learn the process for
making faux fur pom-poms in the studio so we had a lot of fun making these this
month and so much fun showing you the Liz dress as well so please come back
for the next episode and thank you so much you

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